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Siem Reap has
colonial and Chinese-style architecture in
the Old French Quarter, and around the Old
Market. In town, there are Apsara dance
performances, craft shops, silk farms,
rice-paddy countryside, fishing villages and
a bird sanctuary near the Tonle Sap Lake.
Siem Reap today,
being a popular tourist destination, has a
large number of hotels and restaurants. Most
smaller establishments are concentrated
around the Old Market area, while more
expensive hotels are located between Siem
Reap-Angkor International Airport and the
town along National Road 6. There are a
variety of mid-range hotels and restaurants
along Sivatha, and budget to mid-range
hotels in the Phsar Leu area.
Siem Reap
and Angkor Temples
The
world-renowned temples of Angkor are
situated in the nor-western province of Siem
Reap. Within an area of approximately 600
square kilometers, over 100 temples have
been discovered. All were built between the
9th a nd the 13th centuries, and those
remaining temples constitute the skeleton of
what was once the religious and
administrative centre of the Khmer Empire.
The constant building program undertaken by
successive Khmer kings can be
compared-favorably --with the pyramid
construction projects of the Pharaohs in
Egypt. Similarly to the Pharaohs, the Khmer
kings made use of a vast force of slave
labor. Each new "project" was made possible
by the 750,000 people estimated to have
lived at Angkor during the 12th and 13th
centuries. Despite the scores of temples
that remain today, there is little evidence
of these nameless souls who lived in what
must have been one of the biggest cities on
earth at the time. This is because the
people-everyone from the lowliest peasant to
the King's most senior courtiers-lived in
wooden structures, all of which have
long-since rotted away in the tropical heat.
Only gods could live in stone, or in this
case, the god-kings of the Khmer nation.
Portuguese travelers are believed to have
been the first westerners to gaze in wonder
at the temples of Angkor while journeying
during the 16th Century. However, most
credit for the "discovery" of Angkor has
fallen to French botanist Henri Mouhot,
whose visit to Angkor in 1860 was
posthumously documented in Paris in 1868.
During the remainder of the 19th Century and
into the 20th Century, several French
expeditions visited the temples and work was
carried out to clear the jungle, which had
enveloped most of the monuments. In 1907,
Thailand returned control of Angkor to
Cambodia and in the same year the first
tourists arrived.
In the early days of tourism, visitors to
Angkor followed one of two circuits to see
the temples, the Little (Petit) Circuit or
the Big (Grand) Circuit. These were often
undertaken on the back of an elephant. Today
things are different, and air-conditioned
vehicles make the experience significantly
more comfortable.
If time is limited, visitors may choose to
follow "the Petit Circuit", which includes
visits to the Royal City of Angkor Thom with
its numerous temples, Angkor Wat, the royal
bathing pool of Sras Srang, and several
other monuments. Extended tours continue to
the "Grand Circuit", visiting a number of
other temples and an Angkorean reservoir. If
time allows, tourists may also arrange to
visit other prestigious temples such as
Banteay Srey or Banteay Samre, situated
slightly further from the main temple
complex.
Angkor Wat
There are few
places anywhere on earth to match the
splendour of Angkor Wat. The temple is one
of the largest monuments to religion ever
built and is truly one the wonders of the
world. Believed to have been constructed as
a temple and mausoleum for King Suryavarman
II at the peak of the Khmer empire in the
first half of the 12th century, Angkor Wat
is probably the best-preserved of the
Angkorean temples. As with other Angkorean
temples and walled cities such as Angkor
Thom, the central theme of Khmer
architecture revolved around the idea of the
temple-mountain. By the time building on
Angkor Wat was begun early in the 12th
century, this had been elaborated to a
central tower surrounded by four smaller
towers. The central monument represents the
mythical Mount Meru, the holy mountain at
the centre of the universe, which was home
to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers
symbolise Mount Meru's five peaks.
It is difficult to express in words the
enormous scale of Angkor Wat, but it can be
explained in part by a look at the
dimensions of the complex. The temple is
surrounded by a moat which makes the one
around the Tower of London, built at roughly
the same time, look like nothing more than a
garden trench. At 190 metres wide and
forming a rectangle measuring 1.5 km by 1.3
km, it is hard to imagine any attacking
force overwhelming the defences. But the
moat was more than just a defensive bulwark,
in line with the temple's Hindu origins it
represented the oceans of the world.
A rectangular wall measuring 1025 metres by
800 metres borders the inner edge of the
moat. There is a gate in each side of the
wall, but unusually for the mainly
Hindu-influenced Angkorian temples, the main
entrance faces west. This entrance is a
richly decorated portico, 235 m wide with
three gates. However, the temple's greatest
sculptural treasure is its 2 km-long
bas-reliefs around and walls of the outer
gallery and the hundred figures of devatas
and apsaras. This intricately carved gallery
tells stories of the god VI shnu and of
Suryavarman II's successes on the
battlefield. The whole complex covers 81
hectares.
Angkor
Thom
This Royal
city was first built under the reign of
Udayadityavarman II in the 11th Century. It
was destroyed when the Chams from Vietnam
rose up against the Khmers and invaded,
sacking the city, and was subsequently
ren ovated by King Jayavarman VII at the end
of the 12th Century. Inside its walls there
are many monuments :
The Bayon
This temple
mountain built by Jayavarman VII is situated
in the centre of the city of Angkor Thom. It
is a three-tiered pyramid with its entrance
facing East. The central shrine is
surrounded by 54 towers all crowned by
gigantic faces, representing Lokiteshvara
but with the features of Jayavarman VII.
They gaze out to the North, South, East and
West, and wherever you are in the temple,
you are surrounded by these enigmatic faces,
smiling at you all the time. Unlike his
predecessors who had worshipped the Hindu
deities of Shiva and Vishnu, Jayavarman VII
adopted Mahayana Buddhism as the fount of
royal divinity. This sets The Bayon apart
from many other Angkorean monuments.
The
Baphuon
This temple
built by Udayadityarvarman II was the most
poorly constructed of all the temples in
Angkor. From the remaining ruins, it is
possible to see how imposing it was. This
temple hill was dedicated to Shiva, but in
its reliefs many motives from the Vishnu
epic can be seen. Restoration work continues
to be carried out on the Baphuon.
Terrace of
The Elephants and Terrace of The Leper
King
At the North
of the Baphuon lies the Royal city, of which
very little remains except these two
Terraces. The first owes its name to the
outstanding depiction of elephants, while
the second gets its name from the
magnificent sculpture of King Yasovarman,
popularly known as the Leper King. The
original of this statue is now in the
National Museum in Phnom Penh.
Ta Prom
This temple
was a monastery built by Jayavarman VII as a
residence for his mother. Ta Prohm has been
controversially left to the destructive
power of the jungle by French archeologists
to show how nature can destroy man's work.
It has been largely overgrown by the jungle
and as you climb through the dilapidated
stone structures you see many giant
treesgrowing out of the top of the temple
itself. It's the sort of place where you'd
expect to see Indiana Jones step out from
behind a fallen pillar. As such, it is one
of the most regularly visited temples, with
visitors often arriving during the warmer
hours of the middle of the day to take
advantage of the protective canopy the
forest spreads above the temple. Ta Prohm
looks as many of the monuments did when
European explorers first laid eyes on them.
Ta Keo
King
Suryavarman I commissioned this temple in
the 10th Century but it was never completed.
It is a pyramid on 5 levels whose total
height is 22 metres. It is dedicated to
Shiva.
Banteay
Kdei
This temple
was constructed by Jayavarman VII during the
12th and 13th Centuries. It system of
galleries and vestibules that were added
after the construction of the main towers
makes it look like a cloister. It was built
in sandstone, which has deteriorated quite
badly. However, there remain some very
beautiful lintels and pediments.
Sras Srang
The royal
pool is situated opposite the East gate of
Banteay Kdei. It is known as the King 's
bath.
Pre Rup
This temple
was built in the 10th Century by
Rajendravarman. Its proportions are perfect,
a truly beautiful piece of work. In its
construction we can see the first appearance
of the long halls which are very common in
the construction of temples with continuous
galleries. Pre Rup means turning the body
and the Khmer people believe this temple was
a funeral monument.
East Mebon
Also built in
the 10th Century by Rajendravarman, this
temple was situated on a small island in the
middle of the Oriental, or Eastern, Baray.
It has all the characteristics of the
mountain temple but was accessible by boat
only. From the inscriptions found close to
it, we know that Rajendravarman dedicated it
to his parents.
Neak Pean
Built by
Jayavarman VII, this temple is the perfect
representation on earth of the cosmic world.
It has been said that this monument was
consecrated to Buddha who reached perfection
in Nirvana, and the ornamental lakes
surrounding it were meant as places where
pilgrims could wash and purify themselves
before reaching the supreme perfection. In
the centre of these ornamental lakes there
is a small temple surrounded by two nagas,
whose heads allow a passage on the West
side. This temple is one of the beauties of
Khmer art.
Bantrey
Srey
Built by a
Brahman in the 10th Century, this temple was
dedicated to Shiva. The famo us pink
sandstone structure bears a series of
beautiful sculptures, lintels, pediments and
friezes. While not a particularly large
temple complex, the beauty of Banteay Srey
is found not in the scale but the detail.
Some say the bas relief work is the best
example of Khmer classical art remaining.
Phnom Krom
Built by
Yacovarman I in the 10th Century, this
temple sits atop a hill and is interesting
mostly for the view it offers of the valley
and the Tonle Sap. The temple is in a very
poor state, but its ruins are worth
visiting. We recommend a late afternoon
visit to enjoy the landscape and refreshing
winds.
Barays
The East and
West Barays are two enormous lakes, both
entirely man made. They were central to the
health and vigour of Khmer civilisation.
Their irrigation purpose is nowadays a
matter of debate among Angkor specialists.
The East Baray is now empty, whereas the
Western one is still half full.
Roluos
About 10 km
from Siem Reap lies the complex of Roluos,
one of the first Khmer capitals built by
Jayavarman II, then called Hariharalaya.
Today we can visit three remaining Hindu
sanctuaries: Preah Ko, Bakong and Lolei. All
three temples were built of brick and though
they are not as spectacular as the other
temples of Angkor, they are well preserved
and very interesting.
Kobal
Spien
More commonly
known to foreigners as the River of a
Thousand Lingas, this is an area of riverbed
carvings similar to Phnom Kulen, but more
peaceful. Kobal Spien is about a half-hour
walk up a pleasant path shaded by jungle to
w here the carvings begin. It is sensible
although not entirely necessary to get
someone to guide you who can also tell you
about what you are actually seeing. Either
way, do not wander off well-trodden paths as
there is a serious landmine problem here.
The river eventually appears on your left
and the first carvings include a large image
of Vishnu. As you continue on, you come to
an area with several good images of Rama, Lachsme and Hanuman, and further up some lingas. On the way back down there is a path
which follows the river and along this
stretch are hundreds of lingas, hence the
name the River of a Thousand Lingas. These
eventually lead to a waterfall with a pool
below. Kobal Spien is about 30 km north-east
of the Bayon and about 9 km beyond the
temple of Banteay Srei along a good dirt
road.
Phnom
Kulen
Phnom Kulen
is considered by Khmer people to be the most
sacred mountain in Cambodia and is a popular
place of pilgrimage. It played a significant
role in the history of the Khmer empire as
it was from here in 802 that Jayarvarman II
proclaimed independence from Java, giving
birth to modern Cambodia. There is a small
wat at the summit of the mountain which
houses a large reclining Buddha carved into
a sandstone boulder. As at Kobal Spien, at
no point should you wander off well-used
paths as there is a serious landmine problem
here.
From the base of the mountain it is a long
climb to the top, at least one-and-a-half
hours even at a good pace. At the top a
mostly shaded and flat path takes no more
than 30 to 45 minutes before you reach a
small river, into the bed of which are
carved numerous lingas. There is a waterfall
nearby in which you can swim, and an
overgrown temple dating from the Angkor
period, but think twice before climbing
around it as there may be landmines inside.
From the top of Phnom Kulen, 461 metres at
its highest point, the spectacular view
spans right across the forested plateau. |